Sunday, 30 May 2010

Manic Malaysia


Luckily I'd decided to go travelling with Lynsey, who - let's face it - is equally as clueless as I am. Despite this, and never knowing what we are actually doing, it's worked out pretty well so far. It's quite nice to have a buddy to speak to on long 12 hour bus journeys, someone to help me search the room a thousand times when we leave it in fear that something will be left behind and then to calm me down when I worry about it after and she's by my side all the way to share the experiences with.

People go travelling on their own all the time, I personally don't think I would have coped as well. That's just me. I don't doubt that I'm confident or friendly enough. I just think I'd probably end up on the wrong continent.

It's not just the two of us all the time anyway. We've made so many friends along the way. When we went to Koh Samui and Koh Pha Ngan we met Emilie and Tom and then the McHairy boys from Liverpool and also our Aussie friend Quinn. Then we bumped into Kristian in Bangkok and spent time with him in Chiang Mai and Laos. We also had the bus crew in Vietnam and Cambodia. So going back to the southern islands in Thailand, we found we didn't really make any friends to hang out with. We didn't go out as much and spent most of the time just the two of us. It was lovely and chilled. Even though it was just the two of us, we were looking forward to meeting more people!

In Kuala Lumpur, where my auntie lives, I knew I'd be visiting her and her family and that was something to look forward to. I was looking forward to going to Malaysia.

So when Stacey, our friend from home, told us she was going to come meet us for a holiday there, we were thrilled!

When she arrived we'd made her a big banner and she in return gave us some things our parents had given her to bring. It was like Christmas. I have never been so excited about receiving dresses, magazines, sun lotion, tax forms and a sim card! All necessities that will make the rest of our backpacking a lot easier!

In the ten days that she was with us we ended up trying to cram in as much as possible in Malaysia.

Here's where we went.....

KUALA LUMPUR

The capital.

We visited the Twin Towers. I'm not going to pretend that I went up to the Petronas Bridge, that would be a miracle for a vertigo sufferer, but I had a very nice view of the towers at night time, when they were all lit up like Christmas trees.

The Nightlife we saw was The Golden Triangle. It's not really geared for backpackers, mainly locals. We ended up in one club that was playing The Cheeky Girls songs all night. I still had fun though prancing about taking the micky out of myself. A lot of places offer women free entrance and free drinks (how it hurts to be the female of the species...). The only trouble with this area is the number of hookers there are walking the streets.

PENANG

Five hours north of Kuala Lumpur, Penang is a beautiful island off the west coast. The beach is beautiful. The night market is very long and interesting. We had bracelets with Chinese sayings made here for cheap.

Tours - We hired a taxi for the day to take us around and see what the place had to offer. We started off at a spice farm, which was different and interesting. Then we went to see a waterfall, a fishing village that stank, and afterwards a Malaysian village, which we didn't even leave the car to see as it looked quite built up. On the way back we stopped off to try some tea, coffee, chocolate and honey tasting. Coconut coffee tastes so good!

There was no night life whatsoever in Penang. I'd recommend couples and adults/ families to go here, as it is picturesque.



LANGKAWI

This, like Penang, is beautiful, but when we went there were not many backpackers and also no nightlife.

We did a tour called the Island Hopper. We went to see different islands - such as the Pregnant Maiden Island. We also visited a lake and saw some monkeys - not cute, scary. We were warned they may have rabies and to not touch or feed them. Somehow, out of the whole tour gang, a monkey decided to attack me, well my bag. I ended up throwing the thing at it and running off. Some kind gentleman managed to retrieve my bag for me, but I was pretty shaken up.
After this we were taken 'eagle feeding'. We were under the impression the eagles would land on our arms to be fed or near the boat at least. We went in boats near some mangroves and the tour guides sprinkled bird food onto the river. Here the eagles came down to eat and we took pictures, trouble was the birds were so far away, as the boats moved back from where the food was. Luckily Stacey had her long lens camera.




PERHENTIAN ISLANDS

After an overnight bus ride here we were shattered when we arrived in paradise. Taking a small boat to outside the island, and after being told in the middle of the sea we needed to pay for a taxi boat to the actual island (there was no choice; take that, or swim with the backpack on), we finally reached Long Beach. Beach shacks were stretched along the beach, a few restaurants and dive centres. We managed to find the only place on the island that has 24 hour electricity (we're girls and we're flash).
Stacey and I went scuba diving, which was really cool. We took an underwater camera with us, so we spent most of the time taking silly pictures under the waves.
We found a slither of nightlife and drank buckets of Monkey Juice - no one knows what is in this stuff - all kinds of alcohol I reckon. On our first real night out on the whole holiday, it managed to belt down with rain, so we all looked like drowned rats, but we had a nice night anyway at Pandora.
Restaurants were really nice here, steak at Pandora was delicious. We had a not so nice meal at another restaurant behind this place. The lasagne came out cold.

We took a little jungle trek to the other side of the island, Coral Bay. Here it is more remote.

I imagine this place is what Phi Phi was like before tourists flocked to it. It is very untouched and a bit more like The Beach, the film.



All in all Malaysia was exhausting, but I really felt we did as much as the country had to offer and it's great that Stacey managed to experience some backpacking with us.

It was really nice to see someone from home.

It was sad knowing that she was going, but I was also looking forward to Lynsey and I cracking on with the rest of our trip around Asia.

Tuesday, 25 May 2010

I Can't See Me Loving No Island But You For All My Life..


Even it's name, Koh Tao or Turtle (what it stands for), gives you a clue to the relationship anyone who stumbles across it will have with the island located near the eastern shore of the Gulf of Thailand.

Turtles are monogamous creatures and when you are in Koh Tao you feel as though you've found bliss, a potential life home. The thought of leaving it would be like the thought of cheating on it. I spoke with so many people who worked here (mostly dive instructors) and the majority have stayed on the island for a few years, have not really ventured to other parts of Thailand and intend to never leave.

Even the seductive call from nearby Koh Pha Ngan and it's crazy Full Moon parties is not enough to tear some away.

The Nightlife
The resorts and bars along the beach are enchanting with fairy lights glittering along the top of them. You can chill on the beach on big bean bags, have a chilled beer and watch fire dancers perform along the sea front. In land there are huts and restaurants. Rowdier places are Castle Club and Lotus Bar - which sometimes has a live band.

Diving
The very reason people flock here to get their Padi Diving Certificate. It's cheaper than elsewhere in the world and the sea has many great dive sites. Some hotels/ guest houses will do a package deal for accommodation if you do a Padi with them. I didn't do my Padi, but I did go diving in Mango Bay and then Twins. Here I swam into a school of Needle fish - which are about 30 cm long. I also spotted a Trigger fish, Clown fish, many different types of sea cucumber and a sting ray. Butterfly fish were my favourite (they would be). The grand prizes here are spotting whale sharks and turtles. However, the sea is not a zoo, with animals in cages, so it's pot luck to what you see.

Beaches
White fluffy sand, calm shallow sea at the main beach Hat Sairee. You could lie forever here.
Other beaches/ snorkelling spots - Light House, Koh Nangyang (which is a taxi boat ride away), Shark Bay and Mango Bay.

Fishing
We went on a fishing boat for a day and tried three different types of fishing. First we tried to catch bait (Mackerel) using a line that has hooks that look like flies. We then went to another spot and used these fish to catch bigger fish. Then after this we used pieces of fish to catch even bigger fish. I've never done this sport before so it was quite a learning curve. Lynsey had a fantastic time, she got stuck in the toilet, threw her flip flops over board, even managed to tangle up her rod. To be fair I was no better, but fluke/ luck (not skill) would have it I somehow caught a Starlee fish, which we later had for our dinner. I thoroughly enjoyed the day, it was frustrating at times, but also calming too and we had a good day basking in the sun on the sea.

Food
Koh Tao has such a variety of food houses. Mexican, Indian, Italian, BBQs on the beach... sea food here is a must. White and red Snappers, Tuna, prawns, mussels, lobster (not that we can afford this) - the full works.

Hidden Gems
The crazy golf and bowling alley a ten minute tuk tuk ride from Hat Sairee.
The view points dotted along the island with some extraordinary views.
Don't book expensive boat tours to go snorkelling - hire a taxi boat and they will provide you with the equipment and take you to some great spots for half the price.

All in all we had a great week in Koh Tao, I'd definitely go back (maybe to get my Padi - it's ridiculous how many dives I've done and I'm not even fully qualified!). The way of life here is just so chilled.

Who knows maybe I'll even become a dive instructor here one day?!

Maybe I'll never leave.. and enjoy the turtle pace of life.

Monday, 24 May 2010

Falling Back To Earth


I guess when you ride a high, there's got to be a point when you should expect a fall. Nothing is so good it lasts forever.

The problem I found was the higher the wave I surfed the more it hurt when I came hurtling back. I pretty much crash landed.

Boy, did I feel the pain.

Travelling has done me the world of good. I was never unhappy ever, but things like the rain at home would bother me, or if there was a delay on the tube going into work. It's the little stresses that I didn't realise I was having.

Asia has been amazing and care free. I've been having the time of my life. Some days I wake up in the morning (with a hangover) but my mouth is sore at the edges from where I've been smiling or laughing so much.

If anyone needs therapy - I recommend travelling... honestly.

We'd had a chilled couple of weeks in Phuket, after deciding to avoid Bangkok and the riots with the Red Shirts.

We'd had fun at the Thai Water Festival, Songkran, where everyone goes around with water pistols and squirts each other. It's supposed to be a spiritual cleansing warding off evil spirits on the hottest day of the year - but I know it's secretly a huge water fight and a day off!

Here we'd managed to find ourselves a really nice hotel for cheap - it came with a kettle, which is an absolute luxury (heaven - see what I mean, tea on tap - doesn't take much to win my heart!)

I was just getting into the swing of being away from home, work, life in general - I'd reached my peak of happiness.

So hearing about the delights of Phi Phi - white sand, calm clear sea, no roads, absolute perfection..... I should have known something was bound to happen. Leo thought he had found his Utopia in the film The Beach, but he, like me found that there is such thing as the curse of Phi Phi. It lures you in and then it all goes horribly wrong.

So getting off the boat at Phi Phi, we had a little drama trying to find accommodation, but once that was sorted I was ready to get stuck in - not stuck on the rocks!

What a silly move. I don't know why I thought it'd be easier to climb over rocks to get to another beach, when there was a path connecting the two. I guess I thought I was being clever. I literally hit rock bottom scrambling over them.

So it was done, I had to stay in bed for a few days. This nearly drove me insane.

Poor Lynsey, sitting by my side, she must've been going out of her mind.

The doctors splinted my middle toes and then strapped them to my big toe for support. I was given crutches and anti-inflammatory tablets and antibiotics for infection.

I hardly slept at night because of the pain. I was drugged up to the eyeballs and a complete invalid. I couldn't move about and when I needed to I had to be wheeled around in a cart - there are no cars on the island.

How could I complain though? I was in paradise.

I guess it was my punishment for having such a great three months before hand. Surfing my mountain of joy, I slipped off the board and landed down with a thump - on my toes!

It's made me appreciate my whole trip a lot more, I'm never taking for granted how lucky I am again.

Thank God for my feet too - without them I'd never have been able to walk myself around Asia in the first place!